Preparation containing conjugated linoleic alcohol

ABSTRACT

Compositions comprising at least one conjugated linoleyl alcohol component selected from the group consisting of cis- and trans-isomers of 6,8-octadecadienol, 7,9-octadecadienol, 8,10-octadecadienol, 9, 11-octadecadienol, 10,12-octadecadienol and 11,13-octadecadienol are described along with their use in oral and topical applications for humans and animals.

FIELD OF THE INVENTION

This invention relates to preparations containing conjugated linoleylalcohol and to the use of conjugated linoleyl alcohol in foods, cosmeticand pharmaceutical products.

PRIOR ART

Naturally occurring isomeric octadecadienoic acids—as, for example, inmilk, dairy products, oils and fats—containing conjugated double bondsat carbon atoms 9 and 11, 10 and 12 and 11 and 13 are among theessential ingredients of human and animal foods. In recent years, theyhave been increasingly described in the literature under the name ofconjugated linoleic acids (abbreviation: CLAs).

By virtue of their anticarcinogenic and immunostimulating activity, CLAsare being discussed for use as active components in pharmaceuticalproducts. In addition, their use as food supplements is known fromInternational patent application WO 96/06605, which describes areduction in body fat attributable to CLAs, and from WO 99/47135 whichclaims CLA preparations with a high content of trans10, cis12-ndcis9,trans11-octadecadienoic acid.

However, the use of pure conjugated linoleic acids in foods and oralpharmaceuticals is hampered by the unpleasant taste and smell of CLAsand by incompatibilities with other food ingredients or auxiliaries. Tosolve this problem, it is proposed in German patent DE 197 18 245 C1 touse esters of conjugated linoleic acids which, in the form of theirtriglycerides, do not have an unpleasant taste or smell and which, asprecursors, are enzymatically degraded in the body to the free CLAs.

Cosmetic preparations in which CLAs are used in a carrier are said topromote the dermal absorption of conjugated linoleic acids and toprovide protection against carcinogenic effects of UV light, above allin sun protection products. According to U.S. Pat. No. 6,019,990,preparations containing a combination of free conjugated linoleic acidsand conjugated linoleic acid esters are used for this purpose. However,esterification of the free fatty acids results in a reduction in dermaland transdermal absorption on account of an enlarged molecularstructure.

Accordingly, the problem addressed by the present invention was toprovide a substitute for conjugated linoleic acid, particularly for usein foods and cosmetic and pharmaceutical products, which would havebetter organoleptic properties and which would be suitable for dermaland transdermal application. The substance would be easy to produce andto process in various preparations without any incompatibilities.

DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

The present invention relates to preparations containing cis and transisomers of conjugated linoleyl alcohol selected from the groupconsisting of 6,8-octadecadienol, 7,9-octadecadienol,8,10-octadecadienol, 9,11-octadecadienol, 10,12-octadecadienol and11,13-octadecadienol and to preparations containing the isomers ofconjugated linoleyl alcohol in combination with conjugated linoleic acidand/or linoleic acid esters.

The present invention also relates to the use of conjugated linoleylalcohol as a food additive for human and animal nutrition and for theproduction of pharmaceutical and cosmetic preparations, moreparticularly sun protection preparations.

It has surprisingly been found that the enzymatic metabolization ofconjugated linoleyl alcohol after oral and dermal application issufficient to produce an effect comparable with the application ofconjugated linoleic acid. Compared with the free acid, however, theorganoleptic properties of the alcohol are extremely advantageousbecause neither smell nor taste is evident in foods or cosmetic andpharmaceutical preparations. This property provides for increaseddosages and simpler administration of the preparations, even tochildren. In cosmetic preparations, combination with perfumes is notproblematic by virtue of the very faint odor of conjugated linoleylalcohol. In contrast to the known methyl esters of conjugated linoleicacid, there is no risk of methanol being released in thegastrointestinal tract after the oral application of conjugated linoleylalcohol in pharmaceutical preparations or foods. In addition, conjugatedlinoleyl alcohol is far easier to produce than the esters of conjugatedlinoleic acids.

The conjugated linoleyl alcohols are also easy to incorporate in variousfoods, cosmetic and pharmaceutical preparations without initiatingsecondary reactions. On the one hand, they are still sufficientlylipophilic to be readily absorbed both orally anddermally/transdermally; on the other hand, absorption is not reducedbecause the size of the molecule was not increased by esterification ofthe substance to be absorbed. The conjugated linoleyl alcohols arereadily absorbed by the epidermis and, after metabolization in thedermis, are able optimally to develop their protective effect againstUV-light-induced carcinogenesis. The time-dependent metabolization leadsto a prolonged effect. Among the cosmetic preparations, therefore, theyare particularly suitable for use in preparations against ageing of theskin and in sun protection preparations for reducing UV-inducedcarcinogenesis. In combination with UV filters, the conjugated linoleylalcohols lead to a synergistic protective effect.

This long-term effect, which is attributable to the enzymaticmetabolization, is a major advantage, even in the case of oralapplication.

Accordingly, it is opportune to utilize the various metabolizations ofthe substances in the form of preparations containing mixtures ofconjugated linoleyl alcohol and conjugated linoleic acid and/orconjugated linoleic acid esters in order to guarantee an advantageouslinoleyl alcohol level in the organism for the effects to develop.Whereas conjugated linoleic acid is rapidly present in the body and, inthe form of a “bolus dose”, leads quickly to the effective concentrationof active component, the alcohol is metabolized more slowly andcontributes towards maintaining the action level. The alcohol in thesepreparations should generally be present in excess in view of thekinetics—prolonged release of the active component—and the betterorganoleptic properties of the combinations.

Where conjugated linoleyl alcohol is combined with esters of conjugatedlinoleic acid, the action level of conjugated linoleic acids is againdeveloped more slowly. However, by virtue of the differences inabsorption and enzymatic degradation rates between the alcohol and theesters, the substances in this combination, too, complement one anotherin developing a uniform and prolonged action level. These mixtures arealso distinguished by favorable organoleptic properties.

Accordingly, conjugated linoleyl alcohol and mixtures of conjugatedlinoleyl alcohol with conjugated linoleic acid and/or conjugatedlinoleic acid esters are also eminently suitable for use as foodsupplements and in preparations for reducing body fat and for supportingthe buildup of body protein and muscle tissue.

Mixtures of conjugated linoleyl alcohol with conjugated linoleic acidand conjugated linoleic acid esters may also be used to control theoptimal action level.

Conjugated Linoleyl Alcohol

In the context of the invention, conjugated linoleyl alcohols areunderstood to be the cis and trans isomers of 6,8-octadecadienol,7,9-octadecadienol, 8,10-octadecadienol, 9,11 -octadecadienol,10,12-octadecadienol and 11,13-octadecadienol, preferably the mainisomers 9,11-octadecadienol and 10,12-octadecadienol and, moreparticularly, 9-cis, 11-trans-octadecadienol, 10-trans,12-cisoctadecadienol, but also isomer mixtures.

Processes for the production of conjugated linoleyl alcohol are knownfrom International patent applications WO 91/13849 and WO 99/32522.

Conjugated Linoleic Acid

Commensurate with the alcohol according to the invention, the conjugatedlinoleic acids, which may be used in the form of a mixture withconjugated linoleyl alcohol, are present in the form of cis and transisomers of 6,8-octadecadienoic acid, 7,9-octadecadienoic acid,8,10-octadecadienoic acid, 9,11-octadecadienoic acid,10,12-octadecadienoic acid and 11,13-octadecadienoic acid, preferablythe main isomers 9,11-octadecadienoic acid and 10,12-octadecadienoicacid and, more particularly, 9-cis, 11-trans-octadecadienoic acid,10-trans,12-cis octadecadienoic acid, but also the isomer mixtures whichnormally accumulate in the production of conjugated linoleic acid.

Conjugated Linoleic Acid Esters

In the context of the present invention, conjugated linoleic acid estersare understood to be esters of conjugated linoleic acid with mono-and/or polyhydric, saturated and/or unsaturated alcohols with a chainlength of 1 to 22 carbon atoms. Of these esters, synthetic triglyceridescorresponding to formula (I):

in which R¹, R² and R³ independently of one another represent C₆₋₂₄fatty acid residues and at least one substituent R¹, R² or R³ representsa conjugated linoleic acid residue, are preferably used.UV Protection Factors

In the context of the invention, UV protection factors which are used incombination conjugated linoleyl alcohol in dermal preparations are, forexample, organic substances (light filters) which are liquid orcrystalline at room temperature and which are capable of absorbingultraviolet or infrared radiation and of releasing the energy absorbedin the form of longer-wave radiation, for example heat. UV-B filters canbe oil-soluble or water-soluble. The following are examples ofoil-soluble substances:

-   -   3-benzylidene camphor or 3-benzylidene norcamphor and        derivatives thereof, for example        3-(4-methylbenzylidene)-camphor;    -   4-aminobenzoic acid derivatives, preferably        4-(dimethylamino)-benzoic acid-2-ethylhexyl ester,        4-(dimethylamino)-benzoic acid-2-octyl ester and        4-(dimethylamino)-benzoic acid amyl ester;    -   esters of cinnamic acid, preferably 4-methoxycinnamic        acid-2-ethylhexyl ester, 4-methoxycinnamic acid propyl ester,        4-methoxycinnamic acid isoamyl ester, 2-cyano-3,3-phenylcinnamic        acid-2-ethylhexyl ester (Octocrylene);    -   esters of salicylic acid, preferably salicylic acid-2-ethylhexyl        ester, salicylic acid-4-isopropylbenzyl ester, salicylic acid        homomenthyl ester;    -   derivatives of benzophenone, preferably        2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone,        2-hydroxy-4-methoxy-4′-methylbenzophenone,        2,2′-dihydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone;    -   esters of benzalmalonic acid, preferably 4-methoxybenzalmalonic        acid di-2-ethylhexyl ester;    -   triazine derivatives such as, for example,        2,4,6-trianilino-(p-carbo-2′-ethyl-1′-hexyloxy)-1,3,5-triazine        and Octyl Triazone or Dioctyl Butamido Triazone (Uvasorb® HEB);    -   propane-1,3-diones such as, for example,        1-(4-tert.butylphenyl)-3-(4′-methoxyphenyl)-propane-1,3-dione;    -   ketotricyclo(5.2.1.0)decane derivatives.

Suitable water-soluble substances are

-   -   2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid and alkali metal, alkaline        earth metal, ammonium, alkylammonium, alkanolammonium and        glucammonium salts thereof;    -   sulfonic acid derivatives of benzophenones, preferably        2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone-5-sulfonic acid and salts        thereof;    -   sulfonic acid derivatives of 3-benzylidene camphor such as, for        example, 4-(2-oxo-3-bornylidenemethyl)-benzene sulfonic acid and        2-methyl-5-(2-oxo-3-bornylidene)-sulfonic acid and salts        thereof.

Typical UV-A filters are, in particular, derivatives of benzoyl methanesuch as, for example,1-(4′-tert.butylphenyl)-3-(4′-methoxyphenyl)-propane-1,3-dione,4-tert.butyl-4′-methoxydibenzoyl methane (Parsol 1789),1-phenyl-3-(4′-isopropylphenyl)-propane-1,3-dione and enamine compounds.The UV-A and UV-B filters may of course also be used in the form ofmixtures. Particularly favorable combinations consist of the derivativesof benzoyl methane, for example 4-tert.butyl-4′-methoxydibenzoylmethane(Parsol® 1789) and 2-cyano-3,3-phenylcinnamic acid-2-ethyl hexyl ester(Octocrylene) in combination with esters of cinnamic acid, preferably4-methoxycinnamic acid-2-ethyl hexyl ester and/or 4-methoxycinnamic acidpropyl ester and/or 4-methoxycinnamic acid isoamyl ester. Combinationssuch as these are advantageously combined with water-soluble filterssuch as, for example, 2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid and alkalimetal, alkaline earth metal, ammonium, alkylammonium, alkanolammoniumand glucammonium salts thereof.

Besides the soluble substances mentioned, insoluble light-blockingpigments, i.e. finely dispersed metal oxides or salts, may also be usedfor this purpose. Examples of suitable metal oxides are, in particular,zinc oxide and titanium dioxide and also oxides of iron, zirconiumoxide, silicon, manganese, aluminium and cerium and mixtures thereof.Silicates (talcum), barium sulfate and zinc stearate may be used assalts. The oxides and salts are used in the form of the pigments forskin-care and skin-protecting emulsions and decorative cosmetics. Theparticles should have a mean diameter of less than 100 nm, preferablybetween 5 and 50 nm and more preferably between 15 and 30 nm. They maybe spherical in shape although ellipsoidal particles or othernon-spherical particles may also be used. The pigments may also besurface-treated, i.e. hydrophilicized or hydrophobicized. Typicalexamples are coated titanium dioxides, for example Titandioxid T 805(Degussa) and Eusolex® T2000 (Merck). Suitable hydrophobic coatingmaterials are, above all, silicones and, among these, especiallytrialkoxyoctylsilanes or simethicones. So-called micro- or nanopigmentsare preferably used in sun protection products. Micronized zinc oxide ispreferably used.

Commercial Applications

Foods for human or animal nutrition may contain the conjugated linoleylalcohols in quantities of 0.01 to 15% by weight, preferably inquantities of 0.1 to 10% by weight and more particularly in quantitiesof 0.3 to 5% by weight, based on the preparation. The conjugatedlinoleyl alcohols may also be dissolved or dispersed in normal,preferably fat-containing, foods, for example butter, margarine, dietfoods, frying oils, edible oils, mayonnaises, salad dressings, cocoaproducts, sausage and the like.

The conjugated linoleyl alcohols may be used in particular in foods,preferably so-called functional foods, and in pharmaceuticals,particularly as a supporting agent in the treatment of tumours or evenfor the treatment of people suffering from catabolic conditions.

Orally applied products containing mixtures of conjugated linoleylalcohol and conjugated linoleic acid contain the constituents in a ratioof normally 99:1 to 1:99, preferably 98:2 to 50:50 and more particularly95:5 to 60:40. Mixtures of conjugated linoleyl alcohol with conjugatedlinoleic acid esters are present in the preparations according to theinvention in a ratio of 99:1 to 1:99, preferably 98:2 to 40:60 and moreparticularly 90:10 to 50:50.

Cosmetic and/or Pharmaceutical Preparations

Embodiments of the cosmetic and/or pharmaceutical preparations accordingto the invention contain 0.01 to 15% by weight, preferably 0.1 to 8% byweight and, more particularly, 0.3 to 5% by weight conjugated linoleylalcohol, based on the preparation.

The conjugated linoleyl alcohols are intended in particular to be usedin sun protection preparations which contain UV filters as additionalconstituents.

Products according to the invention contain—based on the preparation—

-   -   (a) 0.01 to 15% by weight conjugated conjugated linoleyl        alcohols and    -   (b) 0.1 to 15% by weight sun protection factors.

The sun protection preparations according to the invention preferablycontain—based on the preparation—

-   -   (a) 0.1 to 8% by weight conjugated conjugated linoleyl alcohols        and    -   (b) 0.5 to 10% by weight sun protection factors.

In a particularly preferred embodiment, the sun protection preparationsaccording to the invention contain—based on the preparation—

-   -   (a) 0.3 to 5% by weight conjugated conjugated linoleyl alcohols        and    -   (b) 1 to 5% by weight sun protection factors.

The conjugated linoleyl alcohols may also be used for the production ofcosmetic and/or pharmaceutical preparations such as, for example, hairshampoos, hair lotions, foam baths, shower baths, creams, gels, lotions,alcoholic and aqueous/alcoholic solutions, emulsions, wax/fat compounds,stick preparations, powders or ointments. These preparations may alsocontain mild surfactants, oil components, emulsifiers, pearlizing waxes,consistency factors, thickeners, superfatting agents, stabilizers,polymers, silicone compounds, fats, waxes, lecithins, phospholipids,biogenic agents, antioxidants, deodorants, antiperspirants, antidandruffagents, film formers, swelling agents, insect repellents, tyrosineinhibitors (depigmenting agents), hydrotropes, solubilizers,preservatives, perfume oils, dyes and the like as further auxiliariesand additives.

Surfactants

Suitable surfactants are anionic, nonionic, cationic and/or amphotericor zwitterionic surfactants which are normally present in thepreparations in quantities of about 1 to 70, preferably 5 to 50 and moreparticularly 10 to 30% by weight. Typical examples of anionicsurfactants are soaps, alkyl benzenesulfonates, alkanesulfonates, olefinsulfonates, alkylether sulfonates, glycerol ether sulfonates, α-methylester sulfonates, sulfofatty acids, alkyl sulfates, fatty alcohol ethersulfates, glycerol ether sulfates, fatty acid ether sulfates, hydroxymixed ether sulfates, monoglyceride (ether) sulfates, fatty acid amide(ether) sulfates, mono- and dialkyl sulfosuccinates, mono- and dialkylsulfosuccinamates, sulfotriglycerides, amide soaps, ether carboxylicacids and salts thereof, fatty acid isethionates, fatty acidsarcosinates, fatty acid taurides, N-acylamino acids such as, forexample, acyl lactylates, acyl tartrates, acyl glutamates and acylaspartates, alkyl oligoglucoside sulfates, protein fatty acidcondensates (particularly wheat-based vegetable products) and alkyl(ether) phosphates. If the anionic surfactants contain polyglycol etherchains, they may have a conventional homolog distribution although theypreferably have a narrow-range homolog distribution. Typical examples ofnonionic surfactants are fatty alcohol polyglycol ethers, alkylphenolpolyglycol ethers, fatty acid polyglycol esters, fatty acid amidepolyglycol ethers, fatty amine polyglycol ethers, alkoxylatedtriglycerides, mixed ethers and mixed formals, optionally partlyoxidized alk(en)yl oligoglycosides or glucuronic acid derivatives, fattyacid-N-alkyl glucamides, protein hydrolyzates (particularly wheat-basedvegetable products), polyol fatty acid esters, sugar esters, sorbitanesters, polysorbates and amine oxides. If the nonionic surfactantscontain polyglycol ether chains, they may have a conventional homologdistribution, although they preferably have a narrow-range homologdistribution. Typical examples of cationic surfactants are quaternaryammonium compounds, for example dimethyl distearyl ammonium chloride,and esterquats, more particularly quaternized fatty acid trialkanolamineester salts. Typical examples of amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactantsare alkylbetaines, alkylamidobetaines, aminopropionates,aminoglycinates, imidazolinium betaines and sulfobetaines. Thesurfactants mentioned are all known compounds. Typical examples ofparticularly suitable mild, i.e. particularly dermatologicallycompatible, surfactants are fatty alcohol polyglycol ether sulfates,monoglyceride sulfates, mono- and/or dialkyl sulfosuccinates, fatty acidisethionates, fatty acid sarcosinates, fatty acid taurides, fatty acidglutamates, α-olefin sulfonates, ether carboxylic acids, alkyloligoglucosides, fatty acid glucamides, alkylamidobetaines, amphoacetalsand/or protein fatty acid condensates, preferably based on wheatproteins.

Oil Components

Suitable oil components are, for example, Guerbet alcohols based onfatty alcohols containing 6 to 18 and preferably 8 to 10 carbon atoms,esters of linear C₆₋₂₂ fatty acids with linear or branched C₆₋₂₂ fattyalcohols or esters of branched C₆₋₁₃ carboxylic acids with linear orbranched C₆₋₂₂ fatty alcohols such as, for example, myristyl myristate,myristyl palmitate, myristyl stearate, myristyl isostearate, myristyloleate, myristyl behenate, myristyl erucate, cetyl myristate, cetylpalmitate, cetyl stearate, cetyl isostearate, cetyl oleate, cetylbehenate, cetyl erucate, stearyl myristate, stearyl palmitate, stearylstearate, stearyl isostearate, stearyl oleate, stearyl behenate, stearylerucate, isostearyl myristate, isostearyl palmitate, isostearylstearate, isostearyl isostearate, isostearyl oleate, isostearylbehenate, isostearyl oleate, oleyl myristate, oleyl palmitate, oleylstearate, oleyl isostearate, oleyl oleate, oleyl behenate, oleylerucate, behenyl myristate, behenyl palmitate, behenyl stearate, behenylisostearate, behenyl oleate, behenyl behenate, behenyl erucate, erucylmyristate, erucyl palmitate, erucyl stearate, erucyl isostearate, erucyloleate, erucyl behenate and erucyl erucate. Also suitable are esters oflinear C₆₋₂₂ fatty acids with branched alcohols, more particularly2-ethyl hexanol, esters of C₁₈₋₃₈ alkylhydroxycarboxylic acids withlinear or branched C₆₋₂₂ fatty alcohols, more especially Dioctyl Malate,esters of linear and/or branched fatty acids with polyhydric alcohols(for example propylene glycol, dimer diol or trimer triol) and/orGuerbet alcohols, triglycerides based on C₆₋₁₀ fatty acids, liquidmono-, di-and triglyceride mixtures based on C₆₋₁₈ fatty acids, estersof C₆₋₂₂ fatty alcohols and/or Guerbet alcohols with aromatic carboxylicacids, more particularly benzoic acid, esters of C₂₋₁₂ dicarboxylicacids with linear or branched alcohols containing 1 to 22 carbon atomsor polyols containing 2 to 10 carbon atoms and 2 to 6 hydroxyl groups,vegetable oils, branched primary alcohols, substituted cyclohexanes,linear and branched C₆₋₂₂ fatty alcohol carbonates such as, for example,Dicaprylyl Carbonate (Cetiol® CC), Guerbet carbonates based on fattyalcohols containing 6 to 18 and preferably 8 to 10 carbon atoms, estersof benzoic acid with linear and/or branched C₆₋₂₂ alcohols (for exampleFinsolv® TN), linear or branched, symmetrical or nonsymmetrical dialkylethers containing 6 to 22 carbon atoms per alkyl group such as, forexample, Dicaprylyl Ether (Cetiol® OE), ring opening products ofepoxidized fatty acid esters with polyols, silicone oils(cyclomethicone, silicon methicone types, etc.) and/or aliphatic ornaphthenic hydrocarbons, for example squalane, squalene or dialkylcyclohexanes.

Emulsifiers

Suitable emulsifiers are, for example, nonionic surfactants from atleast one of the following groups:

-   -   products of the addition of 2 to 30 mol ethylene oxide and/or 0        to 5 mol propylene oxide onto linear C₈₋₂₂ fatty alcohols, onto        C₁₂₋₂₂ fatty acids, onto alkyl phenols containing 8 to 15 carbon        atoms in the alkyl group and alkylamines containing 8 to 22        carbon atoms in the alkyl group;    -   alkyl and/or alkenyl oligoglycosides containing 8 to 22 carbon        atoms in the alkyl group and ethoxylated analogs thereof;    -   products of the addition of 1 to 15 mol ethylene oxide onto        castor oil and/or hydrogenated castor oil;    -   products of the addition of 15 to 60 mol ethylene oxide onto        castor oil and/or hydrogenated castor oil;    -   partial esters of glycerol and/or sorbitan with unsaturated,        linear or saturated, branched fatty acids containing 12 to 22        carbon atoms and/or hydroxycarboxylic acids containing 3 to 18        carbon atoms and addition products thereof with 1 to 30 mol        ethylene oxide;    -   partial esters of polyglycerol (average degree of        self-condensation 2 to 8), polyethylene glycol (molecular weight        400 to 5000), trimethylolpropane, pentaerythritol, sugar        alcohols (for example sorbitol), alkyl glucosides (for example        methyl glucoside, butyl glucoside, lauryl glucoside) and        polyglucosides (for example cellulose) with saturated and/or        unsaturated, linear or branched fatty acids containing 12 to 22        carbon atoms and/or hydroxycarboxylic acids containing 3 to 18        carbon atoms and addition products thereof with 1 to 30 mol        ethylene oxide;    -   mixed esters of pentaerythritol, fatty acids, citric acid and        fatty alcohol and/or mixed esters of fatty acids containing 6 to        22 carbon atoms, methyl glucose and polyols, preferably glycerol        or polyglycerol,    -   mono-, di- and trialkyl phosphates and mono-, di- and/or        tri-PEG-alkyl phosphates and salts thereof,    -   wool wax alcohols,    -   polysiloxane/polyalkyl/polyether copolymers and corresponding        derivatives,    -   block copolymers, for example Polyethylene glycol-30        Dipolyhydroxystearate;    -   polymer emulsifiers, for example Pemulen types (TR-1, TR-2) of        Goodrich;    -   polyalkylene glycols and    -   glycerol carbonate.        Ethylene Oxide Addition Products

The addition products of ethylene oxide and/or propylene oxide ontofatty alcohols, fatty acids, alkylphenols or onto castor oil are knowncommercially available products. They are homolog mixtures of which theaverage degree of alkoxylation corresponds to the ratio between thequantities of ethylene oxide and/or propylene oxide and substrate withwhich the addition reaction is carried out. C_(12/18) fatty acidmonoesters and diesters of addition products of ethylene oxide ontoglycerol are known as lipid layer enhancers for cosmetic formulations.

Alkyl and/or Alkenyl Oligoglycosides

Alkyl and/or alkenyl oligoglycosides, their production and their use areknown from the prior art. They are produced in particular by reactingglucose or oligosaccharides with primary alcohols containing 8 to 18carbon atoms. So far as the glycoside unit is concerned, bothmonoglycosides in which a cyclic sugar unit is attached to the fattyalcohol by a glycoside bond and oligomeric glycosides with a degree ofoligomerization of preferably up to about 8 are suitable. The degree ofoligomerization is a statistical mean value on which the homologdistribution typical of such technical products is based.

Partial Glycerides

Typical examples of suitable partial glycerides are hydroxystearic acidmonoglyceride, hydroxystearic acid diglyceride, isostearic acidmonoglyceride, isostearic acid diglyceride, oleic acid monoglyceride,oleic acid diglyceride, ricinoleic acid monoglyceride, ricinoleic aciddiglyceride, linoleic acid monoglyceride, linoleic acid diglyceride,linolenic acid monoglyceride, linolenic acid diglyceride, erucic acidmonoglyceride, erucic acid diglyceride, tartaric acid monoglyceride,tartaric acid diglyceride, citric acid monoglyceride, citric aciddiglyceride, malic acid monoglyceride, malic acid diglyceride andtechnical mixtures thereof which may still contain small quantities oftriglyceride from the production process. Addition products of 1 to 30and preferably 5 to 10 mol ethylene oxide onto the partial glyceridesmentioned are also suitable.

Sorbitan Esters

Suitable sorbitan esters are sorbitan monoisostearate, sorbitansesquiisostearate, sorbitan diisostearate, sorbitan triisostearate,sorbitan monooleate, sorbitan sesquioleate, sorbitan dioleate, sorbitantrioleate, sorbitan monoerucate, sorbitan sesquierucate, sorbitandierucate, sorbitan trierucate, sorbitan monoricinoleate, sorbitansesquiricinoleate, sorbitan diricinoleate, sorbitan triricinoleate,sorbitan monohydroxystearate, sorbitan sesquihydroxystearate, sorbitandihydroxystearate, sorbitan trihydroxystearate, sorbitan monotartrate,sorbitan sesquitartrate, sorbitan ditartrate, sorbitan tritartrate,sorbitan monocitrate, sorbitan sesquicitrate, sorbitan dicitrate,sorbitan tricitrate, sorbitan monomaleate, sorbitan sesquimaleate,sorbitan dimaleate, sorbitan trimaleate and technical mixtures thereof.Addition products of 1 to 30 and preferably 5 to 10 mol ethylene oxideonto the sorbitan esters mentioned are also suitable.

Polyglycerol Esters

Typical examples of suitable polyglycerol esters are Polyglyceryl-2Dipolyhydroxystearate (Dehymuls® PGPH), Polyglycerin-3-Diisostearate(Lameform® TGI), Polyglyceryl-4 Isostearate (Isolan® GI 34),Polyglyceryl-3 Oleate, Diisostearoyl Polyglyceryl-3 Diisostearate(Isolan® PDI), Polyglyceryl-3 Methylglucose Distearate (Tego Care® 450),Polyglyceryl-3 Beeswax (Cera Bellina®), Polyglyceryl-4 Caprate(Polyglycerol Caprate T2010/90), Polyglyceryl-3 Cetyl Ether (Chimexane®NL), Polyglyceryl-3 Distearate (Cremophor® GS 32) and PolyglycerylPolyricinoleate (Admul® WOL 1403), Polyglyceryl Dimerate Isostearate andmixtures thereof. Examples of other suitable polyolesters are the mono-,di- and triesters of trimethylolpropane or pentaerythritol with lauricacid, cocofatty acid, tallow fatty acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid,oleic acid, behenic acid and the like optionally reacted with 1 to 30mol ethylene oxide.

Anionic Emulsifiers

Typical anionic emulsifiers are aliphatic fatty acids containing 12 to22 carbon atoms such as, for example, palmitic acid, stearic acid orbehenic acid and dicarboxylic acids containing 12 to 22 carbon atomssuch as, for example, azelaic acid or sebacic acid.

Amphoteric and Cationic Emulsifiers

Other suitable emulsifiers are zwitterionic surfactants. Zwitterionicsurfactants are surface-active compounds which contain at least onequaternary ammonium group and at least one carboxylate and one sulfonategroup in the molecule. Particularly suitable zwitterionic surfactantsare the so-called betaines, such as the N-alkyl-N,N-dimethyl ammoniumglycinates, for example cocoalkyl dimethyl ammonium glycinate,N-acylaminopropyl-N,N-dimethyl ammonium glycinates, for examplecocoacylaminopropyl dimethyl ammonium glycinate, and2-alkyl-3-carboxymethyl-3-hydroxyethyl imidazolines containing 8 to 18carbon atoms in the alkyl or acyl group and cocoacylaminoethylhydroxyethyl carboxymethyl glycinate. The fatty acid amide derivativeknown under the CTFA name of Cocamidopropyl Betaine is particularlypreferred. Ampholytic surfactants are also suitable emulsifiers.Ampholytic surfactants are surface-active compounds which, in additionto a C_(8/18) alkyl or acyl group, contain at least one free amino groupand at least one —COOH— or —SO₃H— group in the molecule and which arecapable of forming inner salts. Examples of suitable ampholyticsurfactants are N-alkyl glycines, N-alkyl propionic acids,N-alkylaminobutyric acids, N-alkyliminodipropionic acids,N-hydroxyethyl-N-alkylamidopropyl glycines, N-alkyl taurines, N-alkylsarcosines, 2-alkylaminopropionic acids and alkylaminoacetic acidscontaining around 8 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl group.

Particularly preferred ampholytic surfactants areN-coco-alkylaminopropionate, cocoacylaminoethyl aminopropionate andC_(12/18) acyl sarcosine. Finally, cationic surfactants are alsosuitable emulsifiers, those of the esterquat type, preferablymethyl-quaternized difatty acid triethanolamine ester salts, beingparticularly preferred.

Fats and Waxes

Typical examples of fats are glycerides, i.e. solid or liquid, vegetableor animal products which consist essentially of mixed glycerol esters ofhigher fatty acids. Suitable waxes are inter alia natural waxes such as,for example, candelilla wax, carnauba wax, Japan wax, espartograss wax,cork wax, guaruma wax, rice oil wax, sugar cane wax, ouricury wax,montan wax, beeswax, shellac wax, spermaceti, lanolin (wool wax),uropygial fat, ceresine, ozocerite (earth wax), petrolatum, paraffinwaxes and microwaxes; chemically modified waxes (hard waxes) such as,for example, montan ester waxes, sasol waxes, hydrogenated jojoba waxesand synthetic waxes such as, for example, polyalkylene waxes andpolyethylene glycol waxes. Besides the fats, other suitable additivesare fat-like substances, such as lecithins and phospholipids. Lecithinsare known among experts as glycerophospholipids which are formed fromfatty acids, glycerol, phosphoric acid and choline by esterification.Accordingly, lecithins are also frequently referred to by experts asphosphatidyl cholines (PCs). Examples of natural lecithins are thekephalins which are also known as phosphatidic acids and which arederivatives of 1,2-diacyl-sn-glycerol-3-phosphoric acids. By contrast,phospholipids are generally understood to be mono- and preferablydiesters of phosphoric acid with glycerol (glycerophosphates) which arenormally classed as fats. Sphingosines and sphingolipids are alsosuitable.

Pearlizing Waxes

Suitable pearlizing waxes are, for example, alkylene glycol esters,especially ethylene glycol distearate; fatty acid alkanolamides,especially cocofatty acid diethanolamide; partial glycerides, especiallystearic acid monoglyceride; esters of polybasic, optionallyhydroxysubstituted carboxylic acids with fatty alcohols containing 6 to22 carbon atoms, especially long-chain esters of tartaric acid; fattycompounds, such as for example fatty alcohols, fatty ketones, fattyaldehydes, fatty ethers and fatty carbonates which contain in all atleast 24 carbon atoms, especially laurone and distearylether; fattyacids, such as stearic acid, hydroxystearic acid or behenic acid, ringopening products of olefin epoxides containing 12 to 22 carbon atomswith fatty alcohols containing 12 to 22 carbon atoms and/or polyolscontaining 2 to 15 carbon atoms and 2 to 10 hydroxyl groups and mixturesthereof.

Consistency Factors and Thickeners

The consistency factors mainly used are fatty alcohols or hydroxyfattyalcohols containing 12 to 22 and preferably 16 to 18 carbon atoms andalso partial glycerides, fatty acids or hydroxyfatty acids. Acombination of these substances with alkyl oligoglucosides and/or fattyacid N-methyl glucamides of the same chain length and/or polyglycerolpoly-12-hydroxystearates is preferably used. Suitable thickeners are,for example, Aerosil® types (hydrophilic silicas), polysaccharides, moreespecially xanthan gum, guar-guar, agar-agar, alginates and tyloses,carboxymethyl cellulose and hydroxyethyl cellulose, also relatively highmolecular weight polyethylene glycol monoesters and diesters of fattyacids, polyacrylates (for example Carbopols® and Pemulen types[Goodrich]; Synthalens® [Sigma]; Keltrol types [Kelco]; Sepigel types[Seppic]; Salcare types [Allied Colloids]), polyacrylamides, polymers,polyvinyl alcohol and polyvinyl pyrrolidone. Other consistency factorswhich have proved to be particularly effective are bentonites, forexample Bentone® Gel VS-5PC (Rheox) which is a mixture ofcyclopentasiloxane, Disteardimonium Hectorite and propylene carbonate.Other suitable consistency factors are surfactants such as, for example,ethoxylated fatty acid glycerides, esters of fatty acids with polyols,for example pentaerythritol or trimethylol propane, narrow-range fattyalcohol ethoxylates or alkyl oligoglucosides and electrolytes, such assodium chloride and ammonium chloride.

Superfatting Agents

Superfatting agents may be selected from such substances as, forexample, lanolin and lecithin and also polyethoxylated or acylatedlanolin and lecithin derivatives, polyol fatty acid esters,monoglycerides and fatty acid alkanolamides, the fatty acidalkanolamides also serving as foam stabilizers.

Stabilizers

Metal salts of fatty acids such as, for example, magnesium, aluminiumand/or zinc stearate or ricinoleate may be used as stabilizers.

Polymers

Suitable cationic polymers are, for example, cationic cellulosederivatives such as, for example, the quaternized hydroxyethyl celluloseobtainable from Amerchol under the name of Polymer JR 4000, cationicstarch, copolymers of diallyl ammonium salts and acrylamides,quaternized vinyl pyrrolidone/vinyl imidazole polymers such as, forexample, Luviquat® (BASF), condensation products of polyglycols andamines, quaternized collagen polypeptides such as, for example,Lauryidimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Collagen (Lamequat® L, Grünau),quaternized wheat poly-peptides, polyethyleneimine, cationic siliconepolymers such as, for example, amodimethicone, copolymers of adipic acidand dimethylamino-hydroxypropyl diethylenetriamine (Cartaretine®,Sandoz), copolymers of acrylic acid with dimethyl diallyl ammoniumchloride (Merquat® 550, Chemviron), polyaminopolyamides and crosslinkedwater-soluble polymers thereof, cationic chitin derivatives such as, forexample, quaternized chitosan, optionally in microcrystallinedistribution, condensation products of dihaloalkyls, for exampledibromobutane, with bis-dialkylamines, for examplebis-dimethylamino-1,3-propane, cationic guar gum such as, for example,Jaguar®CBS, Jaguar®C-17, Jaguar®C-16 of Celanese, quaternized ammoniumsalt polymers such as, for example, Mirapol® A-15, Mirapol® AD-1,Mirapol® AZ-1 of Miranol.

Suitable anionic, zwitterionic, amphoteric and nonionic polymers are,for example, vinyl acetate/crotonic acid copolymers, vinylpyrrolidone/vinyl acrylate copolymers, vinyl acetate/butylmaleate/isobornyl acrylate copolymers, methyl vinylether/maleicanhydride copolymers and esters thereof, uncrosslinked andpolyol-crosslinked polyacrylic acids, acrylamido-propyltrimethylammonium chloride/acrylate copolymers, octylacrylamide/methylmethacrylate/tert.-butylaminoethyl methacrylate/2-hydroxy-propylmethacrylate copolymers, polyvinyl pyrrolidone, vinyl pyrrolidone/vinylacetate copolymers, vinyl pyrrolidone/dimethylaminoethylmethacrylate/vinyl caprolactam terpolymers and optionally derivatizedcellulose ethers and silicones.

Silicone Compounds

Suitable silicone compounds are, for example, dimethyl polysiloxanes,methylphenyl polysiloxanes, cyclic silicones and amino-, fatty acid-,alcohol-, polyether-, epoxy-, fluorine-, glycoside- and/oralkyl-modified silicone compounds which may be both liquid andresin-like at room temperature. Other suitable silicone compounds aresimethicones which are mixtures of dimethicones with an average chainlength of 200 to 300 dimethylsiloxane units and hydrogenated silicates.

Antioxidants

Besides the primary sun protection factors, secondary sun protectionfactors of the antioxidant type which interrupt the photochemicalreaction chain initiated when UV rays penetrate into the skin may alsobe used. Typical examples are amino acids (for example glycine,histidine, tyrosine, tryptophane) and derivatives thereof, imidazoles(for example urocanic acid) and derivatives thereof, peptides, such asD,L-carnosine, D-carnosine, L-carnosine and derivatives thereof (forexample anserine), carotinoids, carotenes (for example α-carotene,β-carotene, lycopene) and derivatives thereof, chlorogenic acid andderivatives thereof, liponic acid and derivatives thereof (for exampledihydroliponic acid), aurothioglucose, propylthiouracil and other thiols(for example thioredoxine, glutathione, cysteine, cystine, cystamine andglycosyl, N-acetyl, methyl, ethyl, propyl, amyl, butyl and lauryl,palmitoyl, oleyl, γ-linoleyl, cholesteryl and glyceryl esters thereof)and their salts, dilaurylthiodipropionate, distearylthiodipropionate,thiodipropionic acid and derivatives thereof (esters, ethers, peptides,lipids, nucleotides, nucleosides and salts) and sulfoximine compounds(for example butionine sulfoximines, homocysteine sulfoximine, butioninesulfones, penta-, hexa- and hepta-thionine sulfoximine) in very smallcompatible dosages (for example pmole to μmole/kg), also (metal)chelators (for example α-hydroxyfatty acids, palmitic acid, phytic acid,lactoferrine), α-hydroxy acids (for example citric acid, lactic acid,malic acid), humic acid, bile acid, bile extracts, bilirubin,biliverdin, EDTA, EGTA and derivatives thereof, unsaturated fatty acidsand derivatives thereof (for example γ-linolenic acid, linoleic acid,oleic acid), folic acid and derivatives thereof, ubiquinone andubiquinol and derivatives thereof, vitamin C and derivatives thereof(for example ascorbyl palmitate, Mg ascorbyl phosphate, ascorbylacetate), tocopherols and derivatives (for example vitamin E acetate),vitamin A and derivatives (vitamin A palmitate) and coniferyl benzoateof benzoin resin, rutinic acid and derivatives thereof, α-glycosylrutin, ferulic acid, furfurylidene glucitol, carnosine, butylhydroxytoluene, butyl hydroxyanisole, nordihydroguaiac resin acid,nordihydroguaiaretic acid, trihydroxybutyrophenone, uric acid andderivatives thereof, mannose and derivatives thereof,Superoxid-Dismutase, zinc and derivatives thereof (for example ZnO,ZnSO₄), selenium and derivatives thereof (for example seleniummethionine), stilbenes and derivatives thereof (for example stilbeneoxide, trans-stilbene oxide) and derivatives of these active substancessuitable for the purposes of the invention (salts, esters, ethers,sugars, nucleotides, nucleosides, peptides and lipids).

Biogenic Agents

In the context of the invention, biogenic agents are, for example,tocopherol, tocopherol acetate, tocopherol palmitate, ascorbic acid,(deoxy)ribonucleic acid and fragmentation products thereof, β-glucans,retinol, bisabolol, allantoin, phytantriol, panthenol, AHA acids, aminoacids, ceramides, pseudoceramides, essential oils, plant extracts andvitamin complexes.

Deodorants and Germ Inhibitors

Cosmetic deodorants counteract, mask or eliminate body odors. Body odorsare formed through the action of skin bacteria on apocrine perspirationwhich results in the formation of unpleasant-smelling degradationproducts. Accordingly, deodorants contain active principles which act asgerm inhibitors, enzyme inhibitors, odor absorbers or odor maskers.

Germ Inhibitors

Basically, suitable germ inhibitors are any substances which act againstgram-positive bacteria such as, for example, 4-hydroxy-benzoic acid andsalts and esters thereof,N-(4-chlorophenyl)-N′-(3,4-dichlorophenyl)-urea,2,4,4′-trichloro-2′-hydroxydiphenylether (triclosan),4-chloro-3,5-dimethylphenol,2,2′-methylene-bis-(6-bromo-4-chlorophenol),3-methyl-4-(1-methylethyl)-phenol, 2-benzyl-4-chlorophenol,3-(4-chlorophenoxy)-propane-1,2-diol, 3-iodo-2-propinyl butyl carbamate,chlorhexidine, 3,4,4′-trichlorocarbanilide (TTC), antibacterialperfumes, thymol, thyme oil, eugenol, clove oil, menthol, mint oil,farnesol, phenoxyethanol, glycerol monocaprate, glycerol monocaprylate,glycerol monolaurate (GML), diglycerol monocaprate (DMC), salicylicacid-N-alkylamides such as, for example, salicylic acid-n-octyl amide orsalicylic acid-n-decyl amide.

Enzyme Inhibitors

Suitable enzyme inhibitors are, for example, esterase inhibitors.Esterase inhibitors are preferably trialkyl citrates, such as trimethylcitrate, tripropyl citrate, triisopropyl citrate, tributyl citrate and,in particular, triethyl citrate (Hydagen® CAT). Esterase inhibitorsinhibit enzyme activity and thus reduce odor formation. Other esteraseinhibitors are sterol sulfates or phosphates such as, for example,lanosterol, cholesterol, campesterol, stigmasterol and sitosterolsulfate or phosphate, dicarboxylic acids and esters thereof, for exampleglutaric acid, glutaric acid monoethyl ester, glutaric acid diethylester, adipic acid, adipic acid monoethyl ester, adipic acid diethylester, malonic acid and malonic acid diethyl ester, hydroxycarboxylicacids and esters thereof, for example citric acid, malic acid, tartaricacid or tartaric acid diethyl ester, and zinc glycinate.

Odor Absorbers

Suitable odor absorbers are substances which are capable of absorbingand largely retaining the odor-forming compounds. They reduce thepartial pressure of the individual components and thus also reduce therate at which they spread. An important requirement in this regard isthat perfumes must remain unimpaired. Odor absorbers are not activeagainst bacteria. They contain, for example, a complex zinc salt ofricinoleic acid or special perfumes of largely neutral odor known to theexpert as “fixateurs” such as, for example, extracts of ladanum orstyrax or certain abietic acid derivatives as their principal component.Odor maskers are perfumes or perfume oils which, besides theirodor-masking function, impart their particular perfume note to thedeodorants. Suitable perfume oils are, for example, mixtures of naturaland synthetic fragrances. Natural fragrances include the extracts ofblossoms, stems and leaves, fruits, fruit peel, roots, woods, herbs andgrasses, needles and branches, resins and balsams. Animal raw materials,for example civet and beaver, may also be used. Typical syntheticperfume compounds are products of the ester, ether, aldehyde, ketone,alcohol and hydrocarbon type. Examples of perfume compounds of the estertype are benzyl acetate, p-tert.butyl cyclohexylacetate, linalylacetate, phenyl ethyl acetate, linalyl benzoate, benzyl formate, allylcyclohexyl propionate, styrallyl propionate and benzyl salicylate.Ethers include, for example, benzyl ethyl ether while aldehydes include,for example, the linear alkanals containing 8 to 18 carbon atoms,citral, citronellal, citronellyloxyacetaldehyde, cyclamen aldehyde,hydroxycitronellal, lilial and bourgeonal. Examples of suitable ketonesare the ionones and methyl cedryl ketone. Suitable alcohols are anethol,citronellol, eugenol, isoeugenol, geraniol, linalool, phenylethylalcohol and terpineol. The hydrocarbons mainly include the terpenes andbalsams. However, it is preferred to use mixtures of different perfumecompounds which, together, produce an agreeable fragrance. Othersuitable perfume oils are essential oils of relatively low volatilitywhich are mostly used as aroma components. Examples are sage oil,camomile oil, clove oil, lemon balm oil, mint oil, cinnamon leaf oil,lime-blossom oil, juniper berry oil, vetiver oil, olibanum oil, galbanumoil, ladanum oil and lavendin oil. The following are preferably usedeither individually or in the form of mixtures: bergamot oil,dihydromyrcenol, lilial, lyral, citronellol, phenylethyl alcohol,α-hexylcinnamaldehyde, geraniol, benzyl acetone, cyclamen aldehyde,linalool, Boisambrene Forte, Ambroxan, indole, hedione, sandelice,citrus oil, mandarin oil, orange oil, allylamyl glycolate, cyclovertal,lavendin oil, clary oil, β-damascone, geranium oil bourbon, cyclohexylsalicylate, Vertofix Coeur, Iso-E-Super, Fixolide NP, evernyl, iraldeingamma, phenylacetic acid, geranyl acetate, benzyl acetate, rose oxide,romillat, irotyl and floramat.

Antiperspirants

Antiperspirants reduce perspiration and thus counteract underarm wetnessand body odor by influencing the activity of the eccrine sweat glands.Aqueous or water-free antiperspirant formulations typically contain thefollowing ingredients:

-   -   astringent active principles,    -   oil components,    -   nonionic emulsifiers,    -   co-emulsifiers,    -   consistency factors,    -   auxiliaries in the form of, for example, thickeners or        complexing agents and/or    -   non-aqueous solvents such as, for example, ethanol, propylene        glycol and/or glycerol.

Suitable astringent active principles of antiperspirants are, above all,salts of aluminium, zirconium or zinc. Suitable antihydrotic agents ofthis type are, for example, aluminium chloride, aluminium chlorohydrate,aluminium dichlorohydrate, aluminium sesquichlorohydrate and complexcompounds thereof, for example with 1,2-propylene glycol, aluminiumhydroxyallantoinate, aluminium chloride tartrate, aluminium zirconiumtrichlorohydrate, aluminium zirconium tetrachlorohydrate, aluminiumzirconium pentachlorohydrate and complex compounds thereof, for examplewith amino acids, such as glycine. Oil-soluble and water-solubleauxiliaries typically encountered in antiperspirants may also be presentin relatively small amounts. Oil-soluble auxiliaries such as theseinclude, for example,

-   -   inflammation-inhibiting, skin-protecting or pleasant-smelling        essential oils,    -   synthetic skin-protecting agents and/or    -   oil-soluble perfume oils.

Typical water-soluble additives are, for example, preservatives,water-soluble perfumes, pH adjusters, for example buffer mixtures,water-soluble thickeners, for example water-soluble natural or syntheticpolymers such as, for example, xanthan gum, hydroxyethyl cellulose,polyvinyl pyrrolidone or high molecular weight polyethylene oxides.

Film Formers

Standard film formers are, for example, chitosan, microcrystallinechitosan, quaternized chitosan, polyvinyl pyrrolidone, vinylpyrrolidone/vinyl acetate copolymers, polymers of the acrylic acidseries, quaternary cellulose derivatives, collagen, hyaluronic acid andsalts thereof and similar compounds.

Antidandruff Agents

Suitable antidandruff agents are piroctone olamine(1-hydroxy-4-methyl-6-(2,4,4-trimethylpentyl)-2-(1H)-pyridinonemonoethanolamine salt), Baypival® (climbazole), Ketoconazol®(4-acetyl-1-{4-[2-(2,4-dichlorophenyl)r-2-(1H-imidazol-1-ylmethyl)-1,3-dioxylan-c-4-ylmethoxy-phenyl}-piperazine,ketoconazole, elubiol, selenium disulfide, colloidal sulfur, sulfurpolyethylene glycol sorbitan monooleate, sulfur ricinol polyethoxylate,sulfur tar distillate, salicylic acid (or in combination withhexachlorophene), undecylenic acid, monoethanolamide sulfosuccinate Nasalt, Lamepon® UD (protein/undecylenic acid condensate), zincpyrithione, aluminium pyrithione and magnesium pyrithione/dipyrithionemagnesium sulfate.

Swelling Agents

Suitable swelling agents for aqueous phases are montmorillonites, clayminerals, Pemulen and alkyl-modified Carbopol types (Goodrich).

Insect Repellents

Suitable insect repellents are N,N-diethyl-m-toluamide, pentane-1,2-diolor Ethyl Butylacetylaminopropionate.

Self-Tanning Agents and Depigmenting Agents

A suitable self-tanning agent is dihydroxyacetone. Suitable tyrosineinhibitors which prevent the formation of melanin and are used indepigmenting agents are, for example, arbutin, ferulic acid, koji acid,coumaric acid and ascorbic acid (vitamin C).

Hydrotropes

In addition, hydrotropes, for example ethanol, isopropyl alcohol orpolyols, may be used to improve flow behavior. Suitable polyolspreferably contain 2 to 15 carbon atoms and at least two hydroxylgroups. The polyols may contain other functional groups, more especiallyamino groups, or may be modified with nitrogen. Typical examples are

-   -   glycerol;    -   alkylene glycols such as, for example, ethylene glycol,        diethylene glycol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, hexylene        glycol and polyethylene glycols with an average molecular weight        of 100 to 1000 dalton;    -   technical oligoglycerol mixtures with a degree of        self-condensation of 1.5 to 10 such as, for example, technical        diglycerol mixtures with a diglycerol content of 40 to 50% by        weight;    -   methylol compounds such as, in particular, trimethylol ethane,        trimethylol propane, trimethylol butane, pentaerythritol and        dipentaerythritol;    -   lower alkyl glucosides, particularly those containing 1 to 8        carbon atoms in the alkyl group, for example methyl and butyl        glucoside;    -   sugar alcohols containing 5 to 12 carbon atoms, for example        sorbitol or mannitol,    -   sugars containing 5 to 12 carbon atoms, for example glucose or        sucrose;    -   amino sugars, for example glucamine;    -   dialcoholamines, such as diethanolamine or        2-aminopropane-1,3-diol.        Preservatives

Suitable preservatives are, for example, phenoxyethanol, formaldehydesolution, parabens, pentanediol or sorbic acid and the silver complexesknown under the name of Surfacine® and the other classes of compoundslisted in Appendix 6, Parts A and B of the Kosmetikverordnung(“Cosmetics Directive”).

Perfume Oils and Aromas

Suitable perfume oils are mixtures of natural and synthetic perfumes.Natural perfumes include the extracts of blossoms (lily, lavender, rose,jasmine, neroli, ylang-ylang), stems and leaves (geranium, patchouli,petitgrain), fruits (anise, coriander, caraway, juniper), fruit peel(bergamot, lemon, orange), roots (nutmeg, angelica, celery, cardamom,costus, iris, calmus), woods (pinewood, sandalwood, guaiac wood,cedarwood, rosewood), herbs and grasses (tarragon, lemon grass, sage,thyme), needles and branches (spruce, fir, pine, dwarf pine), resins andbalsams (galbanum, elemi, benzoin, myrrh, olibanum, opoponax). Animalraw materials, for example civet and beaver, may also be used. Typicalsynthetic perfume compounds are products of the ester, ether, aldehyde,ketone, alcohol and hydrocarbon type. Examples of perfume compounds ofthe ester type are benzyl acetate, phenoxyethyl isobutyrate,p-tert.butyl cyclohexylacetate, linalyl acetate, dimethyl benzylcarbinyl acetate, phenyl ethyl acetate, linalyl benzoate, benzylformate, ethylmethyl phenyl glycinate, allyl cyclohexyl propionate,styrallyl propionate and benzyl salicylate. Ethers include, for example,benzyl ethyl ether while aldehydes include, for example, the linearalkanals containing 8 to 18 carbon atoms, citral, citronellal,citronellyloxyacetaldehyde, cyclamen aldehyde, hydroxycitronellal,lilial and bourgeonal. Examples of suitable ketones are the ionones,α-isomethylionone and methyl cedryl ketone. Suitable alcohols areanethol, citronellol, eugenol, isoeugenol, geraniol, linalool,phenylethyl alcohol and terpineol. The hydrocarbons mainly include theterpenes and balsams. However, it is preferred to use mixtures ofdifferent perfume compounds which, together, produce an agreeableperfume. Other suitable perfume oils are essential oils of relativelylow volatility which are mostly used as aroma components. Examples aresage oil, camomile oil, clove oil, melissa oil, mint oil, cinnamon leafoil, lime-blossom oil, juniper berry oil, vetiver oil, olibanum oil,galbanum oil, ladanum oil and lavendin oil. The following are preferablyused either individually or in the form of mixtures: bergamot oil,dihydromyrcenol, lilial, lyral, citronellol, phenylethyl alcohol,a-hexylcinnamaldehyde, geraniol, benzyl acetone, cyclamen aldehyde,linalool, Boisambrene Forte, Ambroxan, indole, hedione, sandelice,citrus oil, mandarin oil, orange oil, allylamyl glycolate, cyclovertal,lavendin oil, clary oil, β-damascone, geranium oil bourbon, cyclohexylsalicylate, Vertofix Coeur, Iso-E-Super, Fixolide NP, evernyl, iraldeingamma, phenylacetic acid, geranyl acetate, benzyl acetate, rose oxide,romillat, irotyl and floramat.

Suitable aromas are, for example, peppermint oil, spearmint oil, aniseedoil, Japanese anise oil, caraway oil, eucalyptus oil, fennel oil, citrusoil, wintergreen oil, clove oil, menthol and the like.

Dyes

Suitable dyes are any of the substances suitable and approved forcosmetic purposes. Examples include cochineal red A (C.I. 16255), patentblue V (C.I. 42051), indigotin (C.I. 73015), chlorophyllin (C.I. 75810),quinoline yellow (C.I. 47005), titanium dioxide (C.I. 77891),indanthrene blue RS (C.I. 69800) and madder lake (C.I. 58000). Luminolmay also be present as a luminescent dye. These dyes are normally usedin concentrations of 0.001 to 0.1% by weight, based on the mixture as awhole.

EXAMPLES

Preparation of a Conjugated Linoleyl Alcohol

Example 1

100 g linoleyl alcohol are heated for 2 hours at 120° C. with 1 g of 30%sodium methanolate solution. After filtration by suction via Tonsil, aclear yellow product -containing at least 60% by weight of conjugatedlinoleyl alcohols is obtained.

1-9. (canceled)
 10. A composition comprising at least one conjugatedlinoleyl alcohol component selected from the group consisting of cis-and trans-isomers of 6,8-octadecadienol, 7,9-octadecadienol,8,10-octadecadienol, 9,11-octadecadienol, 10,12-octadecadienol and11,13-octadecadienol.
 11. The composition according to claim 10, whereinthe at least one conjugated linoleyl alcohol component comprises anisomer selected from the group consisting of 9-cis,11-trans-octadecadienol, 10-trans, 1 2-cis-octadecadienol and mixturesthereof.
 12. The composition according to claim 10, wherein the at leastone conjugated linoleyl alcohol component is present in an amount offrom 0.01 to 15% by weight.
 13. The composition according to claim 11,wherein the at least one conjugated linoleyl alcohol component ispresent in an amount of from 0.01 to 15% by weight.
 14. The compositionaccording to claim 10, further comprising an additional componentselected from the group consisting of conjugated linoleic acid,conjugated linoleic acid esters, and mixtures thereof.
 15. Thecomposition according to claim 11, further comprising an additionalcomponent selected from the group consisting of conjugated linoleicacid, conjugated linoleic acid esters, and mixtures thereof.
 16. Thecomposition according to claim 12, further comprising an additionalcomponent selected from the group consisting of conjugated linoleicacid, conjugated linoleic acid esters, and mixtures thereof.
 17. Thecomposition according to claim 10, further comprising a conjugatedlinoleic acid ester.
 18. The composition according to claim 17, whereinthe conjugated linoleic acid ester comprises a triglyceride of theformula (I):

wherein R¹, R² and R³ each independently represent a C₆₋₂₄ fatty acidacyl residue and at least one of R¹, R² and R³ represents a conjugatedlinoleic acid acyl residue.
 19. The composition according to claim 10,further comprising a UV filter.
 20. The composition according to claim11, further comprising a UV filter.
 21. A method comprising: (i)providing a composition comprising at least one conjugated linoleylalcohol component selected from the group consisting of cis- andtrans-isomers of 6,8-octadecadienol, 7,9-octadecadienol,8,10-octadecadienol, 9,11-octadecadienol, 10,12-octadecadienol and11,13-octadecadienol; and (ii) administering the composition to a humanor an animal.
 22. The method according to claim 21, wherein thecomposition is administered orally.
 23. The method according to claim21, wherein the composition is administered topically.
 24. The methodaccording to claim 21, wherein the at least one conjugated linoleylalcohol component comprises an isomer selected from the group consistingof 9-cis, 11-trans-octadecadienol, 10-trans, 12-cis-octadecadienol andmixtures thereof.
 25. The method according to claim 21, wherein the atleast one conjugated linoleyl alcohol component is present in an amountof from 0.01 to 15% by weight.
 26. The method according to claim 21,wherein the composition further comprises an additional componentselected from the group consisting of conjugated linoleic acid,conjugated linoleic acid esters, and mixtures thereof.
 27. The methodaccording to claim 21, wherein the composition further comprises aconjugated linoleic acid ester.
 28. The method according to claim 27,wherein the conjugated linoleic acid ester comprises a triglyceride ofthe formula (I):

wherein R¹, R² and R³ each independently represent a C6-24 fatty acidacyl residue and at least one of R¹, R² and R³ represents a conjugatedlinoleic acid acyl residue.
 29. The method according to claim 21,wherein the composition further comprises a UV filter.